HardwareArduino

 

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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.481 In reply to 40898.479 
I've got a couple of 328ps but couldn't get them to work. Need to try again.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.482 In reply to 40898.481 
They're pretty easy to get working. Everything on that board will get it detected by AVRdude. You do need a USBasp to program it or upload a bootloader if it doesn't come with one.

Me
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.483 In reply to 40898.482 
But it should have have some caps and resistors and other bits to properly connect it all up.

Me
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.484 In reply to 40898.482 
I think I've got some of the correct caps and a ceramic resonator but couldn't get it working last time.

Still cheaper to buy an Arduino nano though!

Maybe it's cheaper to remove a load of the voltage regulator bits off a pro mini.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.485 In reply to 40898.484 
Really? Cheaper to buy a fully assembled board than a single chip? How much do you buy nanos for? My 10 Atmegas cost £20 so £2 each.

I did try disconnecting the voltage regulator and power LED from a mini but couldn't get the power consumption down far enough. Much easier with the DIP chips if you want to go low power.

Me
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.486 In reply to 40898.485 
I bought 5 Nanos for £9.57 early this year. £1.91 each.

I think if low power really is essential then the chip is the way to go.
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.487 In reply to 40898.485 
Looks like you can get 10x nanos for ~£16 now.

Possibly even cheaper if you searched a bit harder - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181880011056
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.488 In reply to 40898.485 
Just found 10 pro minis for under a tenner.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201419551076
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.489 In reply to 40898.487 
Wow, that's crazy cheap. How much do the official ones cost compared to that?

Cheapest I can find the chips on their own is about £1 each. No caps or crystals with that though. My other ones came with all that sfuff but I don't use them, and a DIP socket and reset button.

Me
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.490 In reply to 40898.489 
They're so cheap I pretty much see them as disposable now.

I might see what sort of power a pro mini uses with regulator and all LEDs removed. No USB chip to consume energy either.
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.491 In reply to 40898.490 
Not sure if I posted this before but http://www.gammon.com.au/power is very helpful for power saving.

Me
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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.492 In reply to 40898.491 
I have seen that before, but forgot about it!
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ALL
40898.493 
Soldered up another board with a Li-Ion battery now. It's powering up but not sending the temps for some reason. I'll have to try and fix it tomorrow.

Me

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 From:  graphitone  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.494 In reply to 40898.493 
What's it all going to do in the end?
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  graphitone     
40898.495 In reply to 40898.494 
/Exciting stuff/... display a graph.

Screenshot attached of the current one doing its job in my living room. With other bits for turning my water and heating on.

Me

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 From:  ANT_THOMAS   
 To:  ALL
40898.496 
Finally got round to changing my loft door over to reed switch from hall effect sensors. Open and close switches to prevent closing too far or opening too much and killing the motor/winder.

Whilst I was doing it I killed the original arduino, lovely smell of something electronic going pop. I had stupidly soldered the nano directly to the board meaning I couldn't swap it out easily. Tried to unsolder it but it wasn't budging. Ended up making a new board and added female socket headers so I can swap it out and reprogram without disconnecting the whole board.

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 From:  graphitone  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.497 In reply to 40898.495 
 (bounce)
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  ANT_THOMAS      
40898.498 In reply to 40898.496 
Nice work :) What do you use to activate the door? I think you did say. I've realised it's not goot soldering some parts in just in case they need changing. In fact the reason my temp sensor didn't work last night was because the actual temperature sensor on the board has stopped working.

It's made me make some changes to the software though. Before I was manually inputting the DS18B20 address before flashing, I had to reflash if I wanted to change the sensor. Now it finds the address automatically and lights the LEDs if it can't find one.

I've also changed the sensor interval to 5 minutes from 1 so should save 5 times less data now. Too many points on my graph I think.

Me
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.499 In reply to 40898.498 
So I finally have 2 working sensors. Have to decide where to put this one and also change the software on the Pi so it can show data from more than just one sensor.

Me
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 From:  Chris (CHRISSS)  
 To:  Chris (CHRISSS)     
40898.500 In reply to 40898.499 
My two boards side by side.

Me

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